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XIV
FROM SARATOGA TO THE SOURCE THE Hudson above tidewater is a
lovable pastoral stream, still having considerable breadth and volume of water.
In places it is deep and placid, and again flows in swift, shallow rifts,
filling the air with clamor as it hurries along over the stones. Up here where
the river is not given to loitering and playing see-saw with the tides, its
youthful vigor is put to work. Every now and then there is a dam, and the
stream turns many a mill-wheel, and in some instances generates electric power
for varied uses. Along shore, on either side, is much pleasant, thrifty-looking
farming country, until the out-lying foothills of the Adirondacks are reached. This was a favorite hunting ground
of the Indians in the old days, and when they gathered about their evening
campfires, they liked to tell stories of adventure in the district, some of
which were founded on fact, and others wholly mythical. One of the most
interesting of the legends that have been preserved is the following: “Late one autumn, when the leaves
had nearly all fallen and the snowflakes were beginning to whiten the brown
grass of the wild meadows, a young Mohawk brave lost his way somewhere in the
vicinity of the modern Saratoga. In vain he wandered day after day, and he
recalled with dread the belief of his tribe that a lost person is led by some
evil spirit round and round in an ever-narrowing circle at whose center is
death. Finally, when almost starved, and in despair, a large gray owl,
seemingly emboldened by the gathering shades of the night which was near, flew
across his path on noiseless wings and alighted on a low limb of a
storm-blasted hemlock. Then, turning its big staring eyes on the sufferer it
said derisively, ‘To whoo! to whoo! It is I who have bound thee in my spell. It
is I who have wound thee round and round the charmed circle. It is I who, with
my wife and children in yonder hollow tree, will fatten off thy flesh. To whoo!
To whoo! It is time for thee to die! To whoo! To whoo!’ “But the youthful Mohawk, summoning
his remaining strength raised his bow with trembling arm and let fly an arrow
which brought the monster fluttering lifeless to the ground. While the Indian,
exhausted by his effort, leaned against a tree looking at the dead bird there
flew forth from its body a beautiful white dove. Immediately the lowering
clouds which had covered the sky broke away and the full round moon rose
serenely in the east. The dove hovered before the young hunter as if inviting
him to follow it. He heeded its apparent intentions and it fluttered along
before him till it led him to safety.” Saratoga was a resort of the Indians
long before the whites came to this country, and the peculiar virtues of its
springs were celebrated far and wide. One spring, as it originally existed, had
built for itself a curb about four feet high, and was spoken of by the Indians
as the “High Rock” or “Great Medicine Spring.” In 1767, as a mark of special
friendship, they revealed the spring to Sir William Johnson of the Mohawk
Valley. He had been wounded at the battle of Lake George, twelve years before,
and was subject to recurring attacks of illness, due to that injury. The
Mohawks, who held him in greater esteem than they ever felt for any other white
man, carried him through the forest to the “High Rock Spring,” and laid him in
the healing pool with solemn ceremonies. “The water has almost effected my
cure,” he wrote afterward. Indeed, he came to the spring on a litter carried by
his Mohawk friends, but was so far restored that he accomplished part of his
return journey to Schenectady on foot.
In 1783 General Schuyler made a road through the
woods to the spring from his home on the Hudson a few miles to the east, and
with his family camped beside the medicinal waters for several weeks. That same
year, General Washington, while making a tour through the northern part of the
state visited the spring in company with Alexander Hamilton. The efficacy of
the water soon became “much celebrated as well as the curious round and hollow
rock from which it flowed.” The country between the Hudson and Saratoga, as
described by a member of a party that visited the springs in 1789, “was very
uninviting and almost uninhabited. The road lay through a forest and was formed
of logs. We travelled till the last light had disappeared. At length we heard
the barking of a dog and found our way to a log house, containing but one room
and destitute of everything except hospitable inhabitants. There was no lamp or
candles, light being supplied by pine knots stuck in crevices in the walls. The
conversation of the family proved that wild beasts were very numerous and bold
in the surrounding forests, and that they sometimes, when hungry, approached
the house.
“On reaching the springs at Saratoga
we found but three habitations, and those poor log houses near the Round Rock.
This was the only spring then visited. The log cabins were full of strangers
and we found it almost impossible to obtain accomodations even for two nights.
The neighborhood of the spring, like all the country we had seen for many
miles, was a perfect forest.” Yet within a few decades Saratoga
Springs became one of the greatest watering places on earth, having all the
charm that wealth and fashion could confer added to its natural attractions.
Those who have lodged in its great hostelries and drank of its waters, no doubt
include a very large proportion of the famous people of the last century. In
antebellum days Saratoga was the favorite resort of rich Southerners, and this
fact accounts for some of its peculiar customs and attractions. The permanent
population of the town is about twelve thousand, but at the height of the
summer season there are often in the place two or three times that number.
About thirty different springs exist, none of them, however, in a state of
nature, but each sheltered by a more or less elaborate building. They are all
strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, but present considerable variation
otherwise. Most of them are declared to be pleasant to drink, though this claim
is not made for those having the greatest medicinal reputation; for a nauseous
taste is very apt to inspire faith in such matters. The waters are considered
especially beneficial to the stomach and liver, and in cases of rheumatism,
calculus and similar disorders. In 1871 while drilling in the solid
rock a vein of limestone was struck at a depth of one hundred and forty feet
from which the water immediately spouted to the surface and thirty feet into
the air from an inch nozzle. Many of the other springs were very vigorous in
their flow, but in recent years they have dwindled, the spouters have ceased to
spout and some have stopped flowing altogether. This is due to operations on
the outskirts of the town where the carbonic gas has of late been pumped from
the earth for commercial purposes. The pumping stations, each with lines of
pipe running to several scattered wells all worked by the same engine, remind
one of the oil regions. They have hurt Saratoga as a health resort, but the
state is about to buy them out and the springs are to be restored to their
pristine virtue. At
one of the springs I made the
acquaintance of a man in charge who had both the leisure and the
inclination to
talk. I had wandered into the building to try the water and for five
cents was
furnished with an unlimited quantity, but I did not relish it enough to
want to
absorb very much. The caretaker urged me to imbibe more freely, and
when I
voiced a preference for ordinary water that was pure and tasteless, he
affirmed
that he liked this as well as any water. But his nose had a bloom which
seemingly indicated that his experience as a water drinker was limited,
and
that a more fiery liquid was his favorite beverage. According to him
the famous
springs were not the chief source of Saratoga’s past
prosperity. The great
attraction was gambling at its race track. Gambling in the state had,
however,
recently been outlawed, largely through the efforts of Governor Hughes,
“and
now,” said my acquaintance, “this town is on the
bum. We shall have races just
as in the past, but people don’t want to see a horse race.
They come here for
the betting. I don’t gamble myself; but it is gambling on
horse races that have
made Saratoga. We want the sporting element, and that went elsewhere
when the
Governor shut off betting. We used to make enough in five weeks to
carry us
through the rest of the year; but last season was a bad one. I had to
draw on
my savings, and trade was so poor the merchants were all hard up. There
wasn’t
half of them in such shape they could go to the banks and borrow any
money. The
farmers are hit, too. They come in with their vegetables and things,
and the
people they usually sell to say, ‘No, we don’t want
any. We haven’t got the
money to pay for ‘em.’ It’s a shame. I
don’t care what the ministers say. I’m a
Christian, but they can talk religion all they blame please; they
can’t dictate
to me in a matter that touches my pocket. I ain’t got no use
for the Governor
either. I’ve always been a Republican, but Hughes
don’t get my vote. Since he
signed that anti-gambling bill there’s lots of us in this
county who belong to
his party and yet are doing all we can to kill him when it comes to an
election. He may be all right, but he ain’t all right for
Saratoga.” It did not seem to me that my
informant was very much of an ornament to the Christianity he professed, or
that he was an asset the Republican party would be likely to boast of very
loudly. If the town has fattened on the vices of its visitors, the sooner it
seeks, either of its own free will or by compulsion, some new basis of
prosperity, the better. The place has a distinct individuality
and its principal street, shaded by fine elms for a distance of three miles,
and kept in perfect order, is one of the most beautiful in the United States.
This thoroughfare retains its vernal character in the business as well as the
residence section. Hotels abound in the town, and many of these are very large
and were palatial in their day, but look tawdry now in their ornate type of
architecture. Still, in spite of their pretentions, they have a flavor of the
past that is not un-pleasing. The region is historically one of the most notable
in America, and the battle of Saratoga, which led to the surrender of Burgoyne,
is numbered among the “fifteen decisive battles of the world.” Burgoyne started
from Canada with the expectation of uniting his forces with an army that was to
ascend the Hudson from New York; but in 1777 the roads of northern and central
New York were few and bad. Except in the immediate vicinity of Albany and
Saratoga, the country was covered with the primeval forest, through which only
the trapper and the Indian could make their way with speed. Here it was that
Burgoyne came to grief. His advance from Canada up Lake Champlain and his
capture of Fort Ticonderoga had been easily accomplished, and there was
rejoicing in England and consternation in America. The patriot army was at Fort
Edward, only twenty miles from the head of the lake, and it would apparently be
an easy prey to the victorious British; but Schuyler, its commander, had been
industriously at work with axe and crowbar, and the pioneer roads, bad at their
best, were obstructed every few steps by the huge trunks and tangled branches
of trees that had been felled across them. The bridges, too, were all
destroyed, and Burgoyne could only push forward about a mile a day.
When he at last arrived at Fort
Edward, the Americans had fallen back to Stillwater on the west bank of the
river and were about as far away as they had been before. Meanwhile the militia
of New York and New England were beating to arms and Schuyler’s force was
constantly growing by motley additions from every direction, each soldier
having on the clothes he wore in the fields, the church or the tavern. Burgoyne was expecting much help
from the loyalist inhabitants of the region he was invading; but in this he was
disappointed. The people withdrew as he advanced driving their cattle before
them. The support that he might possibly have had under other circumstances was
largely alienated by his employment of Indian auxiliaries. To be sure, he had
explained to his savage allies that the slaughter of aged men, and of women and
children and unresisting prisoners was absolutely forbidden, and that on no
account were scalps to be taken from wounded or dying men; but these injunctions
had slight effect. One sad tragedy for which the Indians were responsible and
which was long treasured in song and story roused the public wrath against the
invaders, far and wide. Jane McCrea, the beautiful daughter of a New Jersey
clergyman, was at Fort Edward visiting her friend, Mrs. McNeil. One morning a
party of Indians burst into the house and carried away the two ladies. Some
American soldiers pursued the savages who scattered and escaped. They presently
came into the British camp with only Mrs. McNeil, but the next day a famous
sachem, known as the Wyandot Panther, appeared with a scalp of long, silky,
black tresses. It was Jane McCrea’s. A search was made, and the body of the
girl was found near a spring in the forest pierced by three bullet wounds. How
she came to her death was never known, but a version of the story, widely
accepted at the time ran in this wise:
She was betrothed to David Jones, a loyalist, who
was serving as lieutenant in Burgoyne’s army. Her lover sent a letter to her by
a party of Indians entreating her to come to the British camp where they would
be married. Before these Indians reached the McNeil house another company of
savages under the Wyandot Panther raided it and carried off Jane and Mrs.
McNeil. Soon afterward the two parties met near the spring, and the emissaries
of David Jones insisted on taking Jane with them. High words ensued until the
Panther, in a rage, drew his pistol and shot the girl dead.
Burgoyne was a man of quick and
tender sympathy, and the fate of the young lady grieved him greatly. He made
the rule that thereafter no party of Indians should be allowed to go marauding
save under the lead of some British officer, who might watch and restrain them.
The savages showed their disaffection at once. They grunted and growled for two
or three days, and then with hoarse yells and hoots, the whole five hundred
scampered off to the Adirondack wilderness. This desertion deprived the
invaders of valuable scouts and guides, and by no means effaced the desire for
vengeance which their deeds had aroused among the American yeomanry for a
hundred miles round about. At length Burgoyne’s army began to
suffer for lack of food, and there were not horses enough to drag their cannon
and carry the provision bags. Something must be done, and Burgoyne got his
force over to the west side of the Hudson on a bridge of boats. Then he moved
forward to attack the Americans who had taken up a strong position on Bemis
Heights. General Gates was now the patriot commander, having superseded the far
abler Schuyler. American scouts concealed in the upper foliage of the tall
trees that grew on the hillsides were early aware of the British movements, and
the fiery Arnold begged to be allowed to go forth and assail the enemy. When
Gates gave reluctant consent, Arnold with three thousand men fell on Burgoyne’s
advance at Freeman’s Farm. He was outnumbered and sent for reinforcements, but
these were refused. Nevertheless he held his own in a desperate fight for two
hours until darkness put an end to the struggle; and all this while the
incompetent Gates kept idle on Bemis Heights eleven thousand men, nor did he on
the next day follow up the advantage Arnold had gained. Nothing more was done
for nearly three weeks, and Gates in the despatches sent to Congress took to
himself all the credit of this preliminary encounter, and did not even mention
Arnold’s name. Meanwhile Burgoyne was hoping for
relief from Sir Henry Clinton who was to bring an army up the Hudson. But
conditions were fast becoming desperate, and he again attempted to sweep aside
his foes. An advance column failed in its attack, lost its cannon, and became
disordered. At this moment Arnold, who had been watching from the heights,
sprang on his horse and galloped to the scene of action. Gates sent Major
Armstrong to stop him, exclaiming, “Call back that fellow, or he will be doing
something rash!” But Arnold was too swift for the
pursuing messenger. The men greeted their beloved commander with deafening
hurrahs and he directed them against the retreating column of the enemy, and
when that column had been crushed they assailed other vulnerable points of the
invader’s army. The American victory, complete and decisive, had been
practically won when a wounded German soldier lying on the ground took aim at
Arnold. The bullet passed through the general’s left leg and slew his horse. As
he fell, one of his men rushed toward the wounded soldier, and would have
bayonetted him had not Arnold hastily ordered his would-be avenger to desist.
So the poor soldier was saved, and it has been well said that “this was the
hour when Benedict Arnold should have died.” On the morrow Burgoyne retreated
northward a few miles with his wrecked army, and Gates, who now outnumbered him
three to one, closed in on him. A brisk cannonade was opened on the beaten
invaders, and they were harassed with the galling fire of the sharpshooters.
Drinking water became scant, and every man that started with a bucket for the
river was shot dead. So the wife of a soldier courageously volunteered to go;
and she brought water again and again, for the Americans would not fire at a
woman. The end came on October seventeenth, when Burgoyne
surrendered. It was agreed that the captured army should be sent home, but Congress,
with inexcusable lack of honor, did not keep the pledge, and the main body of
the troops were after a time transferred to Virginia. They were not guarded
very rigorously, and some were allowed to escape, and the rest scattered and
for the most part eventually became American citizens. The place of Burgoyne’s surrender is
marked by a tall granite shaft. It is on a hillcrest that overlooks a long
steep slope, descending to the river in the hollow. Beyond the stream are lines
of undulating hills that melt gradually into ridges of hazy blue on the
horizon. The river here is very modest and mild. You can toss a stone across
it, and it slumbers between banks where the great trees with their
wide-spreading branches lean caressingly over it.
For many miles above it has as a
rule the same lazy tree-embowered character. At length we come to Fort Edward.
The fort, which was of considerable importance in the French and Indian wars,
has long ago disappeared. Within the confines of the present village Jane
McCrea met her lamented death, and Fort Edward was the scene of the well-known
exploit of Israel Putnam, who stood on the roof of the powder magazine and
saved it after a strenuous single-handed fight with the fire that consumed the
structure next to it. A few miles more and we arrive at
Glen’s Falls. Here is a thriving modern manufacturing town. The center of
interest for the stranger is not, however, the substantial business section, or
the great mills, but a rocky islet in the middle of the river just below where
the stream begins a chaotic tumble of seventy-two feet down a tangle of steep
ledges. On this spot occurred some of the most thrilling incidents in one of
the world-famous romances of J. Fenimore Cooper — “The Last of the Mohicans.”
Unfortunately an ugly iron bridge runs directly across the island, which
supports one of the bridge piers. It would seem that this
disfigurement might have been avoided. Even if the attraction of the island is
largely one of sentiment, the interest it arouses has a real value to the town
and to the country at large. The island is merely a bare rock swept by the
floods, but on its higher portion are some clumps of bushes and a little grass.
At one point is a small cave opening back into the rock, and this is the
supposed retreat of Hawkeye and his companions when pursued by the savages. The name of the falls is altogether
lacking in inspiration. By the Indians this leap of the Hudson over the rugged
rocks was called Che-pon-tuc — “a hard
place to get around.” When the whites began to settle in the region the falls
became the property of a man named Wing and were known at Wing’s Falls. That
they have not come down to posterity so designated is due to the fact that he
sold the right to the name to a Mr. Glen for the price of a dinner at the
tavern. The latter, after he had paid for the repast, posted all the roads
around with handbills announcing the change in name. At Glen’s Falls it is natural to
turn aside from the river to visit Lake George. The lake is a beautiful,
irregular sheet of water, comparatively narrow, but more than thirty miles
long, with many a wooded guardian height rising from its borders. Its
attractiveness is much increased by its numerous islands. These are said to be
the same in number as the days of the year, and on leap years an extra one can
be found to match the extra day. At the southern end the old embankments of
Fort William Henry can still be traced, and other forts of the Colonial period
in the region survive in similar half-effaced hillocks. The most notable battle fought on
its shores dates back to 1755. An expedition under General Johnson, afterward
Sir William Johnson, on its way to attack the French on Lake Champlain had encamped
at its southern extremity among the stumps of newly-felled trees. The troops
were from the farms and brought their own guns. They had no bayonets, but
carried hatchets in their belts, and by their sides were slung powder-horns on
which, in their leisure they carved quaint devices with the points of their
jack-knives. There were twenty-two hundred effective men and they were
presently joined by three hundred Mohawks. As to the manners and morals of the
army one of the officers wrote that nothing was to be heard “among a great part
of them but the language of hell;” yet it was said that not a chicken had been
stolen on their march, and they now had sermons twice a week, daily prayers and
frequent psalm-singing. The French commander, Baron Dieskau, did not wait
for them to assail him, but made a circuit and gained their rear with a force
of fifteen hundred, most of whom were Canadians and Indians. Late on the night
of September seventh tidings of this movement reached Johnson, and at sunrise a
thousand men were detailed to reconnoitre, and two hundred Mohawk warriors went
with them. An hour elapsed, when from the distance was heard a sudden explosion
of musketry. In the thick woods bordering the narrow, newly-cut road which led
southward from Lake George, the French had concealed themselves, and the
English were first apprised of their danger, by an appalling shout which rose
from both sides of them and was followed by a storm of bullets. The road was
soon strewn with dead and wounded soldiers, and the English gave way. Every man
was a woodsman and a hunter, and the greater part of them spread through the
forest fighting stubbornly as they retreated, and shooting from behind every
tree or bush that could afford a cover. The Canadians and Indians and French
regulars pressed them closely, and far and wide through the forest rang shout
and shriek and the deadly rattle of guns.
Warned by the approaching sound of
the conflict, the soldiers in the camp made a sort of barricade along its
front, partly of wagons, and partly of inverted bateaux, but chiefly of the
trunks of trees hastily hewn down in the neighboring forest and laid end to end
in a single row. The defeated party began to come in; first scared fugitives,
then gangs of men bringing the wounded, and at last the main detachment. A portion of the troops were
detailed to guard the flanks of the camp and the rest stood just back of the
wagons or lay flat behind the logs and bateaux. They were hardly at their posts
when they saw ranks of soldiers moving down the road, and heard a terrific
burst of war-whoops. Some of the men grew uneasy; but the chief officers, sword
in hand, threatened instant death to any who should stir from their posts. If
Dieskau could have made an assault then there would have been little doubt of
his success. But, except for the regulars, the members of his force were beyond
his control and had scattered through the woods and swamps, shouting and firing
from behind trees. The fight continued from noon until after four o’clock, when
the French showed signs of wavering. At this, with a general shout, the English
broke from their camp and rushed on their enemies, striking them down or
putting them to frightened flight through the woods. Some time previous, several hundred
of the Canadians and Indians had left the field and returned to the scene of
the morning fight to plunder and scalp the dead. They were resting themselves,
and night had begun to gloom the forest, when a scouting party from Fort Edward
sent a volley of bullets among them. The assailants were greatly outnumbered,
but they soon had totally routed and dispersed the enemy. Near where this
combat occurred is a pond half overgrown by weeds and water lilies and darkened
by the surrounding forest, beneath whose stagnant waters the bodies of those
slain are said to lie buried deep in mud and slime. Baron Dieskau had been wounded and
taken prisoner. He was carried to the tent of General Johnson, and scarcely had
his wounds been dressed when several of the Mohawks came in, furious at their
losses. There was a long and angry dispute between them and Johnson in their
own language, after which they went out very sullenly. Dieskau asked what they
wanted. “They wanted to burn you, eat you,
and smoke you in their pipes, in revenge for three or four of their chiefs that
were killed,” replied Johnson. “But never fear. You shall be safe with me, or
else they shall kill us both.” As soon as his wounds would permit
Dieskau was carried on a litter, strongly escorted, to Fort Edward, and from
there went on to New York, and later was sent to England. Around Lake George the fighting continued for years,
and the vicinity was the scene of ceaseless ambuscades and forest skirmishing.
Fort William Henry had been built at the southern end of Lake George close to
the edge of the water, and in August, 1757, Montcalm, with a force of eight
thousand men, about one-fourth of whom were Indians, laid siege to it. The fort
was formed by embankments of gravel surmounted by a rampart of heavy logs, and
east of it, on a low rocky hill, beyond a marsh, was an entrenched camp. All
around and far up the slopes of the western mountain, the forest had been cut
down and burned and the ground was cumbered with blackened stumps and charred
trunks and branches of fallen trees. The garrison, which numbered a little more
than two thousand, made a brave defence, but in a few days their position
became deplorable. More than three hundred of them had been killed and wounded,
and small-pox was raging in the fort. There was nothing to do but capitulate
and it was agreed that they should march out with the honors of war and be
escorted the day following by a guard of French troops to Fort Edward. No
sooner did the garrison leave the fort than a crowd of Indians clambered
through the embrasures in search of rum and plunder; and all the sick men
unable to leave their beds were instantly butchered. The English had collected in the
entrenched camp which had been included in the surrender. Presently the Indians
resorted thither, and their intrusive insolence made the women and children
half crazy with fright. There was much disorder, and Montcalm hurried to the
camp and did his utmost to restore tranquility. At last night came, and in the morning
the English, in their haste to be gone, got together at daybreak. The Indians
had been prowling about the outskirts of the camp since midnight, and they were
now all on the alert, and began plundering. They demanded rum, and some of the
soldiers, afraid to refuse, gave it to them from their canteens. After much
difficulty the column at last got out of the camp and began to move along the
road toward the forest. Then the Indians abandoned all restraint, and snatched
caps, coats and weapons from the men, tomahawking those who resisted, and
dragged off shrieking women and children, or murdered them on the spot. Into
the midst of this frightful tumult came Montcalm and other French officers, and
by promises and threats tried to allay the frenzy of the savages. “Kill me, but
spare the English who are under my protection!” Montcalm exclaimed.
The English had muskets, but no
ammunition, and any effective resistance was impossible. Many were killed and
many more were carried away by the Indians, who, the morning after the massacre
set out for Canada. The rest were guarded in the entrenched camp for a number
of days and then escorted to Fort Edward. Meanwhile Fort William Henry had been
demolished, and the barracks torn down. The huge pine logs of the rampart were
now thrown into a heap and set on fire. Then the army reëmbarked, and no living
thing was left amid the desolation, except the wolves that gathered from the
mountains to feast on the dead. In continuing up the Hudson from
Glens Falls one finds the stream largely utilized as a highway for floating
down logs. These come from the mountains in immense numbers every spring, and
after the main drive is past the shores are strewn with numberless stragglers,
and many more are lodged on rocks in midstream. The country grows increasingly
rustic, and the villages usually consist of a hotel, a few wooden stores, and a
group of houses where taking summer boarders is the main business. The railroad
ends at North Creek, and if you would go farther and explore the woods and
mountains, the lakes and wild streams of the Adirondacks, you must continue by
stage or on foot. There are numerous teams on the road and their occupants are
a friendly people, always with a nod and often a companionable greeting for
you, even though you are a total stranger. Most of the houses outside of the
villages are small and barren, and there is an occasional one of logs with a
genuine pioneer aspect. They are often in the midst of a
landscape that has great charm in its mighty hills and river vistas, but the
buildings themselves are usually unprepossessing, and uncaressed by Nature’s
greenery. The Hudson rises in the recesses of
the mountains where the source of its chief branch is a little lake poetically called
“The Tear of the Clouds,” over four thousand feet above the tide. This is the
loftiest body of water in the state from which a stream flows continuously. It
is eighty yards long by about thirty wide, very shallow, with a bottom of soft
black mud that makes its clear water look like ink. Dwarfed spruces abound
along the shores, and here and there rounded boulders lift themselves above
the surface. A climb of one thousand feet more takes one to the summit of the
proudest height in the Adirondacks, Mount Marcy, which the Indians called
Jahawnus — the cloud-piercer. From the Tear of the Clouds flows Feldspar
Brook through a narrow mountain gorge. This, after gathering volume from
tributary streams, takes the name of Opalescent River, and still later becomes
the East Branch of the Hudson. Nature has covered the high places
at the headwaters of the river with a dense growth of evergreens, whose roots
hold the forest mold where it has slowly gathered in the passing centuries.
This forest mold, composed largely of decayed leaves and cones, branches and
fallen tree trunks, is generally called “spruce-duff,” because among the
spruces the deposit is deepest. Together with the rank moss that grows so
abundantly in the shade, it is equal to a sponge for absorbing water and is an
almost perfect medium for regulating the flow of precipitated moisture. Cut
away the trees and expose the mold to the sun, and it soon dies and becomes fit
food for fire. Only a careless spark is needed, and then the fire sweeps the surface
and smoulders in the fibrous mold until it is entirely consumed. After that the
first storm carries away the ashes, leaving only the naked rock, and the work
of a thousand years has been undone. Just how much harm this sort of devastation does to the watershed of the Hudson as a whole is uncertain, but any damage at the headwaters affects to some degree all the rest of the valley. It is greatly to be hoped that the annual fires which sweep over such vast tracts of northern woodland will be better curbed in the future and that the Hudson will remain for unnumbered centuries the same beautiful stream it has been in the past. |