CHAPTER
III
IN
GLENDOWER LAND
As
the name of Llewelyn
is connected with the Snowdon district, so the name of another Welsh
hero, Owen Glendower, lives still in that valley of the Dee that lies
between Corwen and Llangollen.
The
valley itself is one
of the most interesting in Wales. Almost of a horseshoe shape, it is
bounded by ranges of mountains, not very high, but beautiful in shape
and colour. On one side, a blaze of yellow gorse, Moel Gamelin rears
his rounded head; on the other the heather-clad heights of the
Berwyns invite us to scramble up their slopes and to walk along the
sky-line to the end of the vale. In the hollow lies the picturesque
little market-town of Llangollen, and above it the steep cone-shaped
hill is crowned by the ruined castle of Dinas Bran.
In
the old days this
castle must have been of great importance, for it guarded the
entrance to the kingdom of Powys, the middle kingdom of Wales. It was
the stronghold of Madoc, Lord of Powys, and of his son Griffith, who
died in Llewelyn's last desperate struggle for freedom, both of whom
were the ancestors of Owen Glendower himself.
Nowadays
we shall find a
relic of olden times in the harpist who sits upon the summit and
plays Welsh airs, full of mournful sweetness, to those who visit the
ruins. Below in the half-hidden Valle Crucis, lies one of the most
famous of Welsh abbeys, which we are going to explore, in order to
find the testing-place of these ancestors of Glendower.
In
former days Valle
Crucis Abbey, founded by the Lords of Dinas Bran, was noted for its
hospitality—a virtue of which we are reminded by the ruins of a
large hostel, or guest-house, and by the fish-ponds which still
exist. Here are the monks' dormitories; and here, in the chapel,
below the beautiful remains of the east window, lie the battered
tombs of Madoc, the founder, and his son. Returning to Llangollen,
and passing along the Holyhead road, we presently come to
Glendyfrdwy, that "glen of the Dee" from which our hero
Owen took his surname.
Like
most young Welshmen
of noble birth after the Conquest of Wales, Owen Glendower was
brought up in England. Shakespeare makes him remind Hotspur that—
"I
can speak
English, lord, as well as you,
For
I was trained up in
the English Court,
Where,
being but young,
I framed to the harp,
Many
an English ditty
lovely well."
When
Henry IV. became
King, Owen appealed to him against Lord Grey of Ruthin, who had
seized a piece of his moorland. The King favoured Lord Grey, and
earned the lifelong hatred of his rival, who promptly recovered his
land by force of arms. Grey of Ruthin took a mean revenge. When Henry
summoned his Welsh barons, among others, to aid him in a war with
Scotland, he suppressed the message that summoned Glendower, and then
denounced him to the King as a traitor for not obeying his call.
Glendower's house was immediately besieged, and he had only just
time to escape to the woods. Now, Owen was no mean and unknown Welsh
knight. He was as
learned in books as he was skilled in warfare, and his house at
Sycherth, ten miles from his native valley, was famous for its
hospitality. His wife and children were of noble breed; as a poet of
the day sings: "His wife, the best of wives, beneficent mother
of a beautiful nest of chieftains. Happy am I in her wine and
metheglyn."
DISTANT VIEW OF
CARNARVON
BAY
So,
after a century of
peace, when this descendant of the last Llewelyn raised the standard
of revolt on the banks of the Dee, the Welshmen of the districts
far and wide flocked to his aid, singing with the bard, Red Iolo:
"Thy
high renown
shall never fail; Owen Glendower, the Great, the Good, Lord of
Glyndyfrdwy's fertile vale, High born, princely Owen, hail!"
Ruthin,
the stronghold of
Lord Grey, now a quiet country-town, was first attacked and burnt t,)
the ground. Before Henry's army, under the government of Harry Percy,
or Hotspur, and the young Prince Henry, then a boy of fourteen, could
act against them, the revolt had spread all over Wales, and had
declared its aim to be independence Of English rule. The success with
which Glendower met soon earned for him the reputation of a
wizard.
"I
can call spirits
from the vasty deep," Shakespeare makes him boast to Hotspur;
who rudely replies: " Ay, but will they answer?" But let
the rough Northern Earl scoff as he might, Owen certainly met
with almost uncanny success. The English troops, "bootless and
weather-beaten," were driven back across the borders again and
again. Not only North Wales, but the South country also rose under
him. Midway between the two stands "Pumlumon," better known
as Plynlimmon, a five-pointed peak that rises, almost solitary, from
the surrounding plain. Upon this top Glendower planted his standard,
and from thence he managed to capture Mortimer, the powerful English
Earl of royal blood, who became before long his son-in-law.
Owen
was now openly
acknowledged as Prince of Wales; castle after castle fell into his
hands, and Parliaments were held by him at Dolgelly, under the shadow
of Cader Idris, and elsewhere. But meantime Prince Henry, the future
Henry V., was growing up and learning the art of war. It was he who,
while Owen was busy in South Wales, came to his own valley of
Glyndyfrdwy, and burnt his house down. For seven years the war went
on, until the land was wellnigh ruined and the people weary of
warfare. Pardons were freely offered and as freely accepted, until at
last Owen Glendower found himself deserted. Still he would not give
in, and when Henry V., soon after he was made King, sent him an
unasked for pardon by the hands of Glendower's own son, it came too
late; the hero of Wales' last bid for independence was dead.
Nearly
eighty years later
Wales recovered her name for loyalty to an English Sovereign when a
certain Henry Tudor, grandson of a Welsh country gentleman who had
married a King's widow, landed at Milford Haven, and, with the aid of
his fellow-countrymen, won the Battle of Bosworth, and was crowned
King as Henry VII. And so, when Henry VIII., his son, wished to bring
about the Union of England and Wales by Act of Parliament, no voice
was lifted against it. But if Henry thought by this Act, and by
forbidding all magistrates in Wales to use the Welsh language, he was
going to make the country actually a part of England, he was greatly
mistaken. The upper classes might flock to the English Court and
forget their Welsh homes, but the greater part of the people—the
workers of the nation—kept their own speech, their own customs,
their own traditions. The days of warfare were over; but still you
can tell a Welshman from an Englishman wherever he is found. He may
talk the purest English, but the fall and rise of his voice as he
talks differs from the more monotonous tones of his Anglo-Saxon
companion. He is more excitable, more easily moved to wrath, or
tears, or laughter, and he possesses, as a rule, a far more vivid
imagination than is found anywhere outside the Celtic race of
which he forms a part.
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